“The mountain stood silent and watched as millions circled around with prayers on their lips and hopes in their hearts. It murmured some blessings that blew with the breeze and comforted the tired feet of pilgrims who came from far away to cleanse themselves and rekindle their light.”

I typed that out on my mobile phone, a few minutes after completing the Girivalam, the 14 kilometre-long full moon walk around Arunachala, the mountain in Tiruvannamalai (a small town in southern India) that is believed to be a form of Shiva, who is one of the principal deities in the Hindu pantheon. It is often difficult to write about profoundly felt experiences because words seem inadequate, somehow incapable of doing justice to something so visceral. However, I am attempting to do this in the spirit of sharing beyond myself and my classmates.

The Kulturstudier staff took us from Pondicherry to Tiruvannamalai by bus for this beautiful experience, which we had been looking forward to for several days. During the walk, we stopped by at big and small shrines, and to grab a bite or two at food stalls on the street. The most delicious food, of course, was served by women who had set up makeshift cooking spaces right in front of their homes. The food was piping hot, healthy and inexpensive. Such a nice break from the cafes of Pondicherry!

 There is something quite humbling about the experience of walking itself, especially barefoot. One’s skin touches the ground, feels the dirt and pebbles, and the weariness of the earth. One is able to focus on the present moment, and be aware of each sensation acutely. The experience of a walking pilgrimage, in some way, also seems like a social leveller. One’s bank balance does not matter, neither do one’s degrees. It is the feet that carry one along; all other baggage seems to fall away.

We also had the opportunity to chat with many pilgrims along the way.

Some were curious about where we had come from, and they were surprised to know that our group comprised people from Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Italy, Austria, Sri Lanka and India.

At one point, when a pilgrim asked where we were from, I chose to answer, “I am from Pakistan.” He smiled. And I asked, “Am I the first person from Pakistan you are meeting?” He said, “Yes. You are from Pakistan?” I replied, “Yes. We look so much like each other. Isn’t that great?” He took a picture with my German friend Jens and me, and we left with an exchange of cordial greetings.

This conversation may have seemed like a game or prank to an unaware onlooker but Jens was able to appreciate its deeper significance. “I liked what you did, Chintan. At first, I was wondering why you were doing that, but it made sense later.” I was glad to hear that, and said, “Yes, I wish many Indians have the opportunity to meet Pakistanis, and many Pakistanis have a chance to meet people from India.” We really need this to happen, for prejudices to get shattered and make space for a relationship of goodwill and friendship.

I am confident that my experience with Kulturstudier will equip me to contribute effectively to such peace building efforts.

Chintan

For further details about the Girivalam, visit http://www.arunachalasamudra.org/pradakshina_a.html

Photo credit: Vidura Munasinghe